Day Two in the Textiles Lab

Another day long stint in the textiles lab I was determined to really explore the potential of the stripe technique. Although day one had had its successes, I felt like what I'd produced wasn't really in line with my colour palette, and didn't look very resolved.

I had a lot more luck today, arriving prepared I had worked out my exact colour palette the night before using the swatches I had dyed in class previously. 

Textiles Research

Today was entirely was spent slaving over the textile lab stove top. Experimenting and dying up samples of the African inspired textiles I am incorporating into my final year collection. I intended to experiment with a few techniques but instead spent the whole day on stripes, which lead to me to question whether i should just use variations of the stripe technique in my collection. It would certainly unify the collection, and there is so much variation within this single technique I feel i would really be able to explore it fully if i concentrated on it alone.

The Process....

Iron the fabric into pleats
Clamp a piece of wood either side, leaving one edge exposed, place in dye bath...
Un-clamp...
Re-clamp, thi time leaving the other edged exposed, and put in dye bath..
Open out, rinse, and iron flat.

A.F Vandevorst Spring 2010

This collection utilises the layering and drape of sheer fabrications in harmonious colours, creating detailed free flowing looks that evoke a sense of sophistication and sharp style. One can recognise the wearability of the garments separately, whilst the use of layering and accessorising creates interesting looks for the catwalk. This approach to styling is the way i would like to present my collection in the final year show.

Image credit- Style.com

Sewing away....

With two looks due in three weeks exactly, I'm working on perfecting my tioles for my final collection. So far so good, only a few minor adjustments, and over all I'm really happy with the way my designs are progressing. Both these looks are going to utilise the African batik textiles I'm currently experimenting with, and I hope as a result create high impact/ high energy designs. 

Haute Couture Under Structure

Haute couture garments have detailed under structures that provide a base for which the outer layers of the garment are attached to and supported by. These are most often hand sewn together, layers of boning, interlining, and lining crafted together to ensure the flawless perfection of fit and design. 

As my final year collection is influenced by haute couture, i want to reflect the intricate nature of inside of the garments, as a design detail on the outside.

I'm thinking of appliqueing layers of fabric on top of each other as panels on the right side of the garments, and using the internal functional hand stitches such as pad stitching, as decorative embroidery on the outside. 

Here are some inspiration paces from my design journal in regards to this idea.

 

Big Bold Gareth

I really admire Gareth Pugh's talent in innovative and bold fashion design. Dark and imposing, my favourite collection Fall 2008,resonates the structure and built up silhouettes of my up coming collection.

I hope my collection reflects such strength and command of the runway, through the power dressing of built up silhouettes and structure. 

image credit- style.com

MK & A as mentors, vote yes!

Encouraged to find a mentor to inspire us when designing i couldn't go past the Olsen twins. Long ago were the days of Full House I personally feel these girls have an AMAZING sense of style. They pull off looks from sleek simplistic sophistication, to over accessorised boho, dark Gothic, casual sheek and glamour. Whatever the outfit there is a sense of effortless style, they really seem to have a keen sense of fashion and how to work the elements in the creation of edgy and unique looks. 

Image Credit- Olsen Twins anonymous

Searching for Silhouette Inspiration

Before starting to drape my final year collection I took part in some silhouette tutorials, where we draped on the stand with tailored garments creating shapes and silhouettes. It was a really great exercise that not only helped loosen me up but informed some of my most interesting designs that I'm exploring as part of my final 12 looks. I would recommend exercises like this to anyone before they start a collection, it's a great starting point and really assists in informing silhouette, shape and design. 

I then took the photos of these drapes and created proper garments on the body in photoshop, I think this line up really reflects the direction that i want my collection to go in.

Dior

These are some images of my favourite Dior Haute Couture pieces. The sleek tailoring and structured nature of the garments make for eloquent designs, where simplicity creates impact. 

Dior Manniquins at a Red Cross benefit show 1954, Cachottier Spring/ Summer 1951.

Bleu de Perse Autumn/Winter 1955-56, Dior draping on a live model, Mystere de Paris Autumn/Winter 1955-56, Parc Monceau Spring/ Summer 1963. 

Gascogne Autumn/ Winter 1950, Meilhac Spring/Summer 1953, Zemire Autumn/ Winter 1954. 

Image Credit- Pochna. M, 2004, Dior, Assouline Publishing, New York.